The Blonde Travels

Finding Fun in Las Vegas

Anyone who knows me knows that I have a fundamental dislike of Las Vegas. When I think of Vegas, I think of gaudy nightclubs, sad old ladies parked in front of slot machines, overpriced tickets to washed up musical artists, and thousands of tourists sporting fanny packs and the ever-loved socks/sandals combination. Not really my thing.

I also think of all the times I’ve been there before: the time we flipped my car down the Rocky Mountains driving through a blizzard to Vegas, the time a drunk guy tried to bust down the door to our hotel room, the time I got really bad food poisoning the night before my best friend’s wedding… Vegas has not been kind to me, and I probably haven’t given it any reason to. In fact, in at least 6 visits, I’ve never gambled a penny, never been to a club, and never paid for a show.

Nonetheless, my fiance’s brother was playing at the Cosmopolitan for the final stop on his tour, so his siblings, cousins, and significant others all decided to fly out and hang out, and I decided to join them.

I got in on Thursday night. After checking in for my cheap night at the Luxor, I immediately hightailed it down the strip to the Cosmo, where Grouplove, a band we are friendly with and see pretty frequently, was playing.

The Boulevard Pool at the Cosmo is a pretty awesome venue- they drain the shallow end of the pool for the crowd to stand in, but leave the deeper end of the pool open so people can sit around and dip their feet in. Above the stage is a balcony which is full of cabanas. The view all around you is pure Vegas.

As always, Grouplove’s set was awesome, and we had a great time afterwards hanging out in the Chandelier Bar at the Cosmo.

The next day, the rest of our party, including Young the Giant arrived. After moving our stuff over to the Cosmo, we spent most of the day at the newly refilled Boulevard pool. The group of guys in the cabana next to ours fancied themselves musicians, and had an acoustic guitar sing-a-long for half the day that eventually had about 20 of us belting out Bon Jovi’s “Dead or Alive” while all the people attempting to relax on lounge chairs in the pool looked on.

The Young the Giant show that night was pretty epic. We stood backstage for the show, having a ridiculous dance party for 10. For the final song in the encore, “My Body,” our Dutch friend led the song off with a bathrobe-speedo-striptease for one of the female crew members as a birthday present. Towards the end of the song, all of our group was allowed onstage to dance (pic is a selfie from onstage).

We were so cool that Rolling Stone even captured the action. (Okay I know it wasn’t because we were cool, but let a girl dream).

The next, we had a day bed at the Spa Pool in the Cosmo, and spent half the day lounging around.

Once it was dark out, I finally got outside of the casino for a little bit to check out the Bellagio show (in true Vegas fashion, set to “My Heart Will Go On”).

That evening, after an epic walk through the casino carrying pizzas from the in-resort pizza parlor, a bunch of us went to the Ellie Goulding show at, you guessed it, Boulevard Pool. This time, the Cosmo gave us a couple cabanas, and though none of us knew much of her music, we still had a lot of fun.

Afterwards, we went down to the casino, where pretty much everyone except me participated in a riveting game of War (I did not know this was a casino game!), and a few folks, including the band’s tour manager, won pretty decent money.

All in all, I thawed a bit on Vegas this trip. It’s still never going to be one of my favorite cities, but I’m so glad to say that I finally made some happy memories there, and had a wonderful time with everyone just appreciating the music, the fun, and finally being away from the never-ending East Coast winter!

Also, I should apologize to everyone for so long between postings. Typepad has experienced several DDoS attacks in the last week that kept me off, and I didn’t want to make any updates until everything was working again. I have also decided that, because of these security issues, and various formatting issues, I will be moving the site to a different host in the next couple weeks (better earlier than later, right?). Bear with me if production of new content is slow during this time, as I sadly am not a web-development guru.

Thanks for reading!

-A

Horse Races and Whiskey Tasting in Lexington Kentucky

Keeneland Racecourse

One of my favorite places to visit in the spring in Kentucky. Although the state often gets a bad rap, it is one of the undiscovered gems of America, full of bluegrass, stunning farms, priceless racehorses, delicious bourbon, and wonderful people. (Also, let's be honest, any excuse for me to put on a ridiculously big hat and hang out with boys in seersucker!) What more could a girl ask for?

Calumet farm- one of Kentucky's finest

A friend of mine invited us to join her on a roadtrip to Lexington for the opening of Keeneland Racecourse. Although we were hit with storms during the drive out on Thursday night, we made it to Lexington on Friday morning.

We were staying with my friend's uncle, who has a fantastic house right in the middle of bluegrass country, bordered on all sides by small horse farms, and only minutes from the more spectacular large racing operations.

Park-like view from my friend's uncle's place

Our first stop after unpacking our bags was a tour of the Woodford Reserve distillery in Versailles, KY. The distillery is a small operation (about 4000 barrels per year, as opposed to I think 70,000 barrels at Jack Daniels). Unlike many distilleries, Woodford Reserve also does full production in house, from boiling the grains, to bottling the finished whiskey. 

Woodford Reserve

The grounds alone are worth a visit, but the beautiful old factories, recently renovated visitor center and whiskey tasting add an extra bit of fun to the visit.

On Saturday, before heading to the races, we stopped by a foaling farm, where pregnant thoroughbred mares are kept until they birth their foals, and the foals are kept until they are ready to go to track or be sold at auction. This farm, operated by a retired veterinarian for one of the major racing stables, had some of the most adorable foals I've ever seen.

How cute is she?!

After our farm visit, we headed out to Keeneland Racecourse for brunch in the owners clubhouse, a private club for racehorse owners and their guests.

Cool wallpaper in the clubhouse

We then headed over to the track. Being my first time to Keeneland, I was stunned at how beautiful it is compared to most American racetracks- thoroughly parklike.

Park-like Keeneland

We had only been there for a few minutes, looking horses over in the paddock, when a gentleman came and offered us use of his private box seats during the day. We immediately took him up on this, and were rewarded with a gorgeous box right over the finish line. To add to the fun, I got to talking to him, and discovered that his wife went to high school with my mother in the Pacific Northwest!

The view from our box

 

My group in our box

We all thoroughly enjoyed the races, and even my friends who had never been to the track before managed to win some money on their two dollar gambles. Attending the races with my friend's uncle (a racehorse owner) also led to the benefit that we all got to go stand in the paddock while the horses were being saddled for the races.

In the paddock before a race

After Keeneland, we returned back to the house and had a killer grill out, with enormous steaks, and a 40 year old bottle of wine uncovered in the basement of the house. We then went out to a local bar/restaurant to watch the Kentucky Wildcats win in the NCAA Basketball Semifinals, which made the trip just that much more fun.

Although none of us wanted to leave, we had a wonderful time in Kentucky, and I hope to make it back again this fall or, at the very latest, in time to go to the Derby again next spring.

Trapped by Ataturk's Death Bed- Dolmebahce Palace and Cruising the Bosphorus

Gardens of Dolmebahce Palace

Hey all, sorry for so long between posts- just got back from a long weekend in Kentucky, which I will be posting about soon. However, for today, more of Istanbul!

On our last day in Istanbul, we decided to visit Dolmebahce Palace, which served as the seat of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 until 1922, and is located across town from Sultanahmet on the Bosphorus. Mustafa Kemal “Ataturk” used the palace as a presidential residence in the early 20^th century, and also happened to die there. And little did we know, we also happened to visit on the day of the 75^th anniversary after his death.

When we got off the metro at the stop for Dolmebahce, I thought we were approaching a major soccer game of some sort. Everyone was dressed in red, waving Turkish flags, and carrying red roses (okay, the red roses are kind of weird, but maybe soccer is just like that in Turkey, I thought). We even passed by a soccer stadium where many vendors stood outside selling red Turkey scarves and flags. Sure, a photo of Ataturk was printed on lots of these flags, but still, the only reason for the pageantry was a soccer game.

The crowd begins at the gates into Dolmebahce

When we arrived at stand to pay for tickets to enter the palace, we stood blankly for a minute, as nobody seemed to be at the counter, yet a crowd was gathered inside the gates. “The palace is free today!” a man told us, observing our awkward pause. Oh, great! we said to each other, walking into the complex, the Turks are really nice on soccer days!

We followed the general throng of crowds through the gardens, to the side of the palace, where a large festively dressed crowd was gathered. Cool! We thought. They have their soccer rallies at palaces! We left the rally and continued wandering around, looking for the entrance. Dolmebahce palace is very large, and we managed to wander around the entire thing, coming back to where we started, trapped by a fence on the other side of the rally.

The crowd begins

We gradually came to realize that this was probably the entrance, and that maybe we weren’t at a soccer rally. We observed people coming out of the palace near us, so slipped through that door, planning to backtrack our way through. Unfortunately, that plan was scrapped in approximately 11.5 seconds by a security guard, who told us to get back in line with everyone else.

Eventually, we made it back around the palace, into the crush of people, where we were promptly swallowed, and slowly, slowly pushed forward toward the entrance. Some 40 minutes later, after several unsuccessful attempts at escape, we reached the palace entrance, still having no idea what was going on.

Blurry shot through the crowd of the world's largest Tiffany lamp, and Ataturk pictures

Only after we passed the largest Tiffany lamp in the world in the midst of a crush of people did we see the signs indicating that it was the 75^thanniversary of Ataturk’s death. Surrounded by thousands of reverent Turks, with no source of forward or backward momentum, we settled in for a very, very, very slow tour of about 8 rooms in Dolmebace Palace. As a minor claustrophobe, this was not my idea of a fun afternoon, and I spent a lot of time staring at the ceiling, which was the only open space I could see.

Crowds through the palace

Eventually, we made it to Ataturk’s death bed, which, even though early in the day, was already covered with thousands of flowers. The crowd moved quicker after this, and we were able to run through to sweet freedom, barely taking the time to appreciate the opulent interior of the rest of the palace.

Ataturk's death bed

Having finally escaped the palace, we decided that a relaxing cruise was what we needed. Luckily, Istanbul is situated between the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus Strait, which connects the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea in the North. A number of tour operators offer short trips up and down the Bosphorus, allowing beautiful opportunities to photograph Istanbul’s skyline.

Lighthouse in the Bosphorus

We chose to take the public Eminonu ferry, which has a limited number of stops as it cruises up and down the Bosphorus. There are two options on the ferry- one tour lasts the better part of a day, and the other is about 2.5 hours of total cruising time, and goes out past the second bridge of Istanbul. Since it was already early afternoon by this point, we opted for the shorter route.

The short cruise costs 10 Turkish lira (about $5), which makes it one of the more affordable attractions in the country, and cheap food and hot drinks are readily available onboard. While there is only one stop at Ortakoy, the ferry passes by a number of attractions including Galata, the Bosphorus Bridge, Beylerbeyi Palace, the Rumelian Castle, and of course, Dolmebahce, where we observed the crowd had grown exponentially even since we’d left.

Rumelian Castle

 

The second bridge

The cruise, while chilly, was a perfect wind-down after the chaos of the morning. It arrived back at Eminonu just in time to watch the sun set spectacularly over Galata Tower and Sultanahmet.

Stunning Bosphorus sunset

Australia Someday Contest- Win A Trip to Australia Courtesy of Delta/Virgin Australia

I’m not entirely sure if this contest has been around for a while, but Virgin Airlines/Delta Airlines ads definitely started popping up on my computer 2 days ago to get me to register, so I figured I would spread the word.

The “Australia Someday” contest offers participants the chance to win one of 52 distinct trips offered. One trip will be offered each week for a year, beginning in July 2014. Each trip is focused on a different experience, ranging from scuba diving, to wine tasting, to exploring the Outback.

Participants are allowed to enter once for each trip. The only catch? The clues about each trip do not tell you exactly where you will be going- you have to guess. Participants who correctly pin to within 10 miles of the trip location will be entered in a drawing for that trip.

If you want to enter all 52 like I have, block out a few hours of time, and prepare to learn a lot about Australia! The contest is open through April 21^st, 2014 and is open to Americans in the 50 states and DC.

Visit http://www.australiasomeday.com/ to enter, and remember to take me with you if you win!

Harams and Turkish Viagra (or: Topkapi Palace, Suleymaniye and the Spice Bazaar)

The view of Suleymaniye and the New Mosque from Topkapi Palace

Any trip to Istanbul is incomplete without a visit to Topkapi Palace, the center of the Ottoman Empire, where the Sultans lived and ran government for about 400 years, from 1465-1856.

Topkapi Palace courtyard

While Topkapi Palace has not been used for government functions for a long time, it has been converted into one of Turkey's finest museums, featuring various treasures of the Ottoman Empire, everything from jewel encrusted tapestries, to jewel encrusted clothes, to jewel encrusted weapons, to jewel encrusted furniture, to just straight up jewels. Yes, Topkapi Palace is home to more sapphires, emeralds and rubies than you will probably see anywhere else in your life.

Yes, that is a tapestry made from real gold and pearls

More interesting than the museum exhibits for me, were the buildings themselves, which included several stunning buildings in the gardens that at one time served as reception halls or conference rooms. The tile work in these buildings is amazing, and I had very brief fantasies of coming home and plastering the walls of my very modern US apartment with similar tiles. Don't think I could quite pull off Sultan-chic though.

Tilework on the outside of Topkapi Palace

 

Admiring the tilework inside Topkapi

Aside from the main portion of the palace is the haram.

The best red tape ever

While most people in the US think of a haram as simply the group of women that the Sultan had available for his pleasure, it actually is a more complicated system than this. While the haram did include the Sultan's special lady friends, it was also a term used for the broader residence of the Royal Family. The Sultan's wives, mother, and children all resided in here as well (with his mother generally ruling over the place... slightly weird I know). 

Gigantic beds in the harem

The haram was clearly designed for comfort for everyone, and in addition to beds that would hold 10 of my current bed on their frames, there was again a variety of amazing tilework and fountains.

A good visit after Topkapi is to head to Suleymaniye, the mosque of Suleiman the Magnificant, who was emperor at the height of the Ottoman Empire in the mid-1500s. The largest mosque in the city, Suleymaniye boasts prominent place in Istanbul's skyline, and is designed similarly to the Blue Mosque.

Two girls sit outside Suleymaniye

The inside of the mosque is more airy and simply decorated than the Blue Mosque, though I found that I actually preferred it.

Inside Suleymaniye

Suleiman is interred in a mausoleum just outside the mosque in the gardens, although this was closed to the public due to threats the mosque had received when I visited.

Suleiman's mausoleum

In the gardens, we accidentally crashed a wedding during our walk through. Luckily, the adorable bride was fine with me standing around awkwardly taking cell phone pictures of her, as she and her groom posed for "official photographs." I kind of want to take official wedding photographs in Istanbul, since this seemed to consist mostly of jumping from any number of benches and rocks in the garden, in order to capture the floaty-ness of the bride's dress.

The bride, about to jump off a pillar

Just outside of the mosque complex is the tomb of the architect Sinan, who was chief architect for Suleiman, and completed over 300 major projects, including Suleymaniye, and helping to design the Taj Mahal.

Following the road downhill past Sinan's tomb, we found ourselves in Belt Buckle Land. Literally, an entire street of shops devoted to nothing but belt buckles. For once, I really wished I wore belts, so I could stock up just in case something happened to my existing buckles.

After Belt Buckle Land, we wandered through Food Scale and Home Safe Land, then Small Refrigerator Land, then Cheap Toys for Street Vendors Land... Interestingly, instead of spacing shops throughout the city, Istanbul's shops seem to keep market competition heated by placing all stores of a similar type within about 5 feet of each other. I imagine this leads to a lot of amazing haggling, but since I had no need for a food scale, I did not have an opportunity to check this out.

I didn't get picture of the belt buckles- just this cat about to get his ass beat by a chicken

Once we had come down the hill to the water, we wandered over to Istanbul's famed Spice Bazaar, which sits in the shadow of the New Mosque in Eminonu. 

Spices Bazaar

I am generally not a fan of crowded, closed quarters, and the Spice Bazaar is very crowded, and very closed off.

Peppers at the Spice Bazaar

However, with easily identifiable exits, and vendors who were generally less likely to hassle me than other Middle Eastern market's I've been to, I actually enjoyed the Spice Bazaar quite a bit. The prices were amazing, and I was able to purchase everything from 1/2 pound of tea to a big box of saffron for under $5. Well worth the claustrophobia!

Delicious Turkish delights in the Bazaar

 For your enjoyment, here's one more for the road. The Spice Bazaar really does have everything!

 

 

Flashback Friday- Istanbul's Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque

Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque

 “Throwback Thursday” and “Flashback Friday” are all the rage in social media these days. So is it tacky for me to start doing blog posts about past travels? Absolutely. But, if Hemingway, Twain, and all of the other famous travel writers of the past were allowed to write about their past adventures, I don’t see why this lowly blogger can’t do it too.

Today, I’m flashing back to one of my most recent adventures from this winter: Istanbul, specifically, visiting Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Istanbul had been high on my bucket list for a long time, so when Turkish Airlines came out with a fabulous sale on flights last summer, I jumped on them. (Seriously, people interested in visiting Turkey, check Turkish Airlines specials regularly, they have some fantastic deals!)

Blue Mosque

Although winter is not the time most people think of visiting Istanbul, it is actually still a very pleasant time to go. Most days were still sunny, and although the temperatures were chilly, my leather jacket was usually warm enough. Also, there were no tourists, which made visiting major attractions a much more pleasant experience than I imagine it would be in summer.

Another advantage of winter travel is you are much more likely to get free room upgrades, and the lovely folks at Hotel ADA did not disappoint. Hotel ADA is located on a quiet side street in Sultanahmet, and, although it is only 2 blocks to the Blue Mosque, feels as though you are in a regular neighborhood. We were given a beautiful suite looking out over the Sea of Marmara, the Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, and a recent excavation of Roman ruins, along with a Jacuzzi tub in the window to better admire the view.

Seriously, how cool is this room?

Word to the wise, while the photos from your room might come out very well when you are sleeping 20’ from a mosque, you will also be woken up multiple times at night, early in the morning, and any other time you chance to fall asleep, due to the call to prayer. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

View from our hotel room

As a huge history geek, one of the first places I wanted to tour was Haghia Sophia.  One of the oldest churches in the world, Haghia Sophia was built in 537 as an Eastern Orthodox Cathedral. In 1453, under Ottoman rule, the building became a mosque, which it remained until 1931, when it was turned into a secular museum under Ataturk.

Haghia Sophia

Pictures do not do the scale of Haghia Sophia justice- it is massive. And it is one of the strangest architectural oddities I’ve ever seen. You can see exactly where, over the years, different groups have added different features to the structure to try to bring it more in line with their religious buildings.

Architectural features of Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque

The inside of Haghia Sophia is also reflective of the back and forth between Eastern Orthodox and Islam. Stunning Byzantine mosaics that have been trapped for centuries under plaster are now emerging, thanks to restoration efforts.

Byzantine Mosaic

In many cases, these golden mosaics are surrounded by the vines, leaves and flowers typical of Islamic art. Grand Quranic medallions decorate the four corners of the atrium, although cathedral like pulpits remain. More than any other structure in Istanbul, in Haghia Sophia, visitors are connected with the evolution of the city, from Christian Constantinople to Islamic Istanbul.

Inside Haghia Sophia

Just across the large courtyard from Haghia Sophia is the other dominant feature of the Istanbul skyline: the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (better known as the Blue Mosque).

The Blue Mosque

Built in the early 17^th century, the mosque gets its unofficial name from the beautiful blue tiles decorating the interior.

Inside the Blue Mosque

While the mosque is one of the most popular attractions in the city, it is still a house of worship, so visitors should be advised that it is closed to visitors for about half an hour during each of the five daily prayers. As with all mosques, visitors are expected to remove their shoes before entering the mosque, and women must cover their heads and shoulders. If you do not have appropriate attire, the mosque will loan you a scarf (but you’re better to follow my packing tips!).

Call to prayer at the Blue Mosque

While the inside of the mosque is beautiful, I think one of my favorite things about Sultanahmet was simply walking on along the ancient Hippodrome of Constantinople, created by Emperor Septimius Severus in 203 AD, which currently runs alongside the Blue Mosque. The Hippodrome offers amazing views of Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, and includes attractions of its own, including an Egyptian obelisk, and a Greek column stolen from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi.

View from the Hippodrome at night

Next time, I present another round of Istanbul escapades, from illicitly taking pictures of Mohammed’s sword at Topkapi Palace, crashing a wedding at Suleymaniye, to discovering an entire street devoted solely to the sale of belt buckles and food scales.

As always, thanks for reading!

-A

Weekend Trips: Virginia's Spring Horse Races

Middleburg Spring Races

Spring is one of the best times of year to visit Virginia: the humidity hasn’t become stifling yet, the stinkbugs aren’t out, and the red clay that characterizes much of the soil is finally drying out. For those who live within a day’s drive, it is also one of the best times to observe the range of spring country horse races offered throughout the countryside.

Although Virginia’s official mantra might be “Virginia is for Lovers,” Virginia is second only to Kentucky in states with equestrian traditions. George Washington, in many ways the quintessential Virginian, was an avid foxhunter who kept a pack of hunting hounds at Mount Vernon. Today, Virginia remains one of the world’s great foxhunting and horse racing meccas, merging American history into its very European equestrian traditions. U.S President James Madison’s Montpellier estate, for example, remains one of the most popular sites for fall races, and is a regular fixture for the Keswick Hunt Club.  

My foxhunting club in early spring

Spring marks the end of hunt season and the beginning of race season for Virginia’s equestrians. Unlike the big dirt races that most Americans might be familiar with (Kentucky Derby, etc.), Virginia’s races are much more pastoral in nature, and are quite reminiscent of England’s popular point-to-point races. These spring races, which may be amateur or professional in nature, typically take place in a large grass field that has received little treatment other than a mowing.

View of a Virginia racetrack

The terrain is varied, and may include hills and occasionally even water crossings. In many cases, the horses race over a series of timber or brush jumps.

A race over hedges

While professional races involve jockeys on sleek thoroughbreds, the amateur races include races ranging from small children on their ponies, to gigantic draft horses racing over fences.

One of the youngest racers at Bull Run Hunt's Spring Races

While these races might be most popular with the horsey set, they are wonderfully fun for travelers of all persuasions. I try to attend at least two or three each spring, and every friend who has come along has thoroughly enjoyed themselves, and commented on how different and superior the experience is to visiting a conventional racetrack.

Tailgate with friends at Virginia Gold Cup

Instead of grandstands, these races sell parking spots alongside the track, where patrons set up  tailgating parties, which generally include cocktails, intricately decorated tables, and a full spread of food. Competitions for the best tailgate party can be fierce, and one of the most entertaining parts of attending these races is walking from party to party, looking at the décor, and maybe receiving a cookie or drink from one of the friendly patrons.

A dog show entrant for the "Cutest Dog" division

Though the liquor often flows freely at these events, the culture is still much more family friendly than a typical racetrack. Many race hosts set up a variety of activities for children, allowing them to enter amateur dog shows and stick horse races. Hunt races often allow kids the chance to interact with the hunt club’s hounds as well.

Hounds being paraded out for the kids to see

For out of town guests, there is also usually a shopping area for vendors, showcasing the work of local artisans. Some of my favorite booths in the last year have included one which sold a “distill your own mini-barrel of whiskey” kit, one which specialized in fancy Kentucky Derby style hats, and a local dairy showcasing their varieties of artisan cheeses. 

The hat contests are another fun people watching activity

While some of the spring races have already begun, they continue until late May. The Central Entry Office website  lists most of the upcoming races. 

For those who may feel conspicuous visiting one of the smaller races, several of the races, including the Middleburg Spring Races and the Virginia Gold Cup attract a large and vibrant crowd, that makes for an exciting day of people watching.

The car watching is usually pretty good too

I particularly like to pair a trip to one of these races with a visit to Middleburg. Located near Dulles Airport, Middleburg has gained a reputation as the "Nation's Horse and Hunt Capital," and has attracted everyone from John and Jackie Kennedy, to Elizabeth Taylor, to current Senators and Wall Street magnates. 

For those who choose to stay in Middleburg, make sure to check out the Red Fox Inn, one of the United States' oldest taverns, which is old enough to have been frequented George Washington himself. The area is also steeped in Civil War history, and those who choose to make a weekend of it can easily attend races on one day, and visit local civil war sites on the other. For the less historically inclined, the region also boasts many excellent wineries, including one of my favorites, Philip Carter Winery, whose Porto "1762" is deliciously aged in whiskey barrels.

Relaxing game of sunset cornhole at Philip Carter

A weekend in Virginia's horse country is fun for everyone, and offers a range of country delights and sophisticated charm that perfectly represent Virginia's fusion of European and American culture and history.

Packing Tips #1: Bring These 3 Multi-Use Items In Your Carry-On Luggage

Since I can’t be on a trip all the time, I’ve decided to share some of my traveling tips during my home stays. Today, I present “Packing Tips,” a recurring segment where I discuss my disdain for checked luggage, and how to downsize your suitcase through smarter packing.

If there is one thing I hate about traveling, it is packing. From making checklists, to unpacking dozens of times to see if I remembered to bring everything, to the inevitable jumping and sitting on top of an overstuffed suitcase attempting to get it closed. I hate it.

So, when travelling, I try to simplify things as much as possible. One way I’ve found of doing this is incorporating as many “multiple use” products as possible into my carry-on luggage. This way, if the airline loses my checked luggage, or if I simply forgot something, I am able to survive until I find a store at my destination. Today, I present you with my 3 “must pack” multi-use items for every trip I go on.

 Jojoba Oil

Desert Essence Jojoba Oil, $10.53/4 oz

Jojoba oil is the jack-of-all trades for the beauty industry, which makes it perfect for traveling. This light oil is a key ingredient in many high-end moisturizers, but can be purchased by itself for about $11 for 4 ounces (perfect for your carry on!). It is non-comedogenic, and a few drops go a long way.

Among the myriad uses of jojoba oil, it can be used as a makeup remover, eye serum, moisturizer, cuticle cream, lip balm, deep conditioner, and hair smoothing serum, allowing you to cut out many products that might otherwise be crowding your beauty bag.

Tea Tree Oil

Country Life Tea Tree Oil, $7.19/1 oz

Tea tree oil has long been touted for its antibiotic and anti-fungal properties, and is an increasingly popular ingredient in a number of personal care and first aid products. Tea tree oil can be purchased in most health food stores for about $8/oz, and again, one or two drops goes a really long way.

Tea tree oil should always be diluted with water before topical application. Diluted tea tree oil is effective in fighting acne and other skin conditions, and can be used to treat cuts, scrapes, athlete’s foot, and other skin injuries you commonly encounter while traveling. A drop or two in water makes an effective facial toner. Given its antimicrobial properties, it can also make a very effective mouthwash when you are missing your toothbrush. It can substitute for a deodorant when applied to the underarms, though be warned it does not work as an antiperspirant. Given its strong smell, a drop or two applied to the chest is also supposed to help relieve chest and sinus congestion, and help reduce the severity of an asthma attack. Tea tree sprayed on the body also allegedly works as an insect repellant. In short, this amazing oil can act as a substitute for many basic first aid items that you might otherwise be tempted to bring, saving you valuable packing space.

Pashmina Shawl

*Photo from fashionscarvesblog.com

A quality pashmina shawl (hereafter “pashmina”) is probably the most versatile and useful item in my travel wardrobe. I am not talking about the $5 “pashminas” sold on street corners of every tourist destination ever. I am talking about real pashminas, made from the undercoat of a Cashmere goat. The real deal is an investment piece. It is going to cost a lot more than $5, but is SO worth the cost. I always throw a pashmina in my suitcase, no matter the time of year. It doesn’t take up any space, and I am pretty sure I’ve used it at least once on every trip I’ve taken.

Pashmina is one of the warmest fabrics, pound for pound, on earth, and can be used as a warm travel blanket for unexpected nights spent at the train station, airport, hostel that doesn’t offer bed linens, etc. It is unbelievably warm as a shawl, scarf, or hat for times when you simply didn’t bring suitable clothes for cold weather, and it does not itch! It is also good to carry along in conservative countries and to religious sites, where women may be expected to cover their shoulders and/or hair. On the beach, a pashmina can be used for a makeshift sarong or even a beach towel. It is an instant way to jazz up an otherwise casual dress into appropriate evening attire, and, in a fix, can serve as a suitable hobo sack to carry your groceries. 

Genuine pashmina scarves are readily available online, at sites such as The Pashmina Store in the USA, and MyPashmina in the UK.

 

So, those are my 3 "must pack" multiple use carry-on items. Do you have any items you feel like you have to include in your carry-on luggage?

Tolting through Lava on the Icelandic Horse, and Finding the Northern Lights

Riding my mount through the lava fields

When I decided to visit Iceland, the first thing I told my friend was that we HAD to go riding on Icelandic horses. Though we had originally booked a riding tour on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, that obviously did not happen owing to the aforementioned insane blizzard. Instead, we chose to do a tour closer to Reykjavik. We chose to go with Islenski Hesturinn, partially because it had fabulous TripAdvisor reviews, partially because they allowed last minute booking.

The male part of the Islenski Hesturinn duo, Sveinn, picked us up at our hotel early in the morning to take us out to the farm. We stopped along the way and picked up another 6 tourists from Canada, which we were happy to hear was the entirity of our tour group (many Icelandic riding companies allegedly take entire busloads of people riding at once).

Beautiful scenery

Islenski Hesturinn is located within Reykjavik city limits, though you'd never know it to look at the deserted lava fields located around the stable.

On my mount

We were greeted on arrival by Sveinn's wife Begga, who was to be our tour guide for the day. We were all escorted into a warm room in the barn with benches, and given an overview of the Icelandic horse. For those who do not know about these horses, they are pretty interesting. Although there are only 300,000 people in Iceland, there are over 100,000 horses. The horses have been kept isolated from the rest of the world, and thus do not receive vaccinations. This means that there are very strict laws related to the horses- no bringing your pre-owned saddle or riding boots into the country! And once an Icelandic horse has left the island, it is never allowed to return.

The breed is also a gaited breed, meaning that besides the walk-trot-canter that a normal horse uses to move, the Icelandic horse is "five-gaited," and has two additional gaits: the "tolt" and the "flying pace." All Icelandic horses can tolt, but not all can do the pace. The tolt was what I really wanted to experience- people say it is the most comfortable gait you can ever ride- and they are not lying.

 

Begga gave a very good overview of how to ride a horse, comforting the beginners in our group with clear instructions. I was pleased that she allowed her Icelandic Sheepdog puppy, named Kvika ("magma") to come hang out during the meantime. 

Kvika- so cute!

We were all given helmets, boots, and cold weather jumpsuits if desired (I declined- foxhunting in Virginia in the winter makes me okay in 20 degrees with just jeans on), and paired with a horse according to our riding abilities. My mount was this cute little dark bay/brown guy named Brunn ("Brown").

Brunn

 

My friend and I got a matching set

Once everyone had ridden around the paddock a bit, we were off, with Begga leading us on a very pleasant ride through the lava fields. Though the ground was covered in snow and God knows what kind of lava underneath, the horses were all very sure-footed, allowing us to enjoy the stunning scenery and seeing the sun for the first time in days.

I was pleased to find that it was pretty easy to get my mount to tolt- sit way back like you're on a couch, have a little more hand on the reins than normal, and push your legs forward, and you're golden. The tolt is a very smooth gait, literally feels like you're riding on an equine Mercedes. And little Brunn kindly indulged me by tolting for most of the ride, so I could maximize my experience.

Getting my tolt on

Though I wish we could have stayed out longer, I had a wonderful timing trying out the Icelandic horse. Next time I go back, I would love to do one of the multi-day rides during the summer, or maybe even help out with summer herding efforts.  

Relaxing in the paddock after our ride

I think that's about it for me and my Iceland adventures. For those of you who were wondering, yes, I did get to see the Northern Lights, very, very briefly given all of the weather issues, and not as bright as I'd hoped for. They were still very cool though. Here is the only picture I got.

Very faint shot of the Aurora Borealis

 

Thanks for reading!

-A

 

Avoiding the Icelandic Search and Rescue Squad on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula

Home with a view on Snaefellsnes

As much as Snaefellsnes sounds like a Dr. Suess character, it is a real place, although it certainly has some geological oddities of which the good doctor would undoubtedly approve.

Located several hours north of Reykjavik, the Snaefellsnes Peninsula is the middle peninsula coming out of Western Iceland. For fans of Ben Stiller, apparently most of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty was filmed here. For those of a more literary persuasion, Jules Verne located his opening to the center of the earth on Snaefellsnes. Additionally, several of the Icelandic Sagas take place prominently here. 

Although we had been planning to drive the Snaefellsnes Peninsula ourselves, again encountering a questionable weather forecast, we decided to again rely on the services of Iceland Excursions. 

The peninsula is supposed to be a sort of "Iceland in miniature," with a glacier (Snaefellsjokull), mountains, black sand beaches, regular sand beaches, basalt sculptures, and volcanic craters. 

Beautiful rock sculptures on the beach

Our first stop of the day was Ytri Tunga, a beach on the southeast coast made famous for its seal colony, where the sociable seals supposedly hang out on the rocks. Unfortunately, the only seal I saw on the rocks was half decayed, but I did see one little guy in the water.

Seagrass, snow and mountains at Ytri-Tunga

Keeping with the half-decayed theme, our next stop was a hill overlooking the site of the farm of Axlar-Bjorn, Iceland's most famous serial killer, who ran one of the original Icelandic guesthouses in the 16th century. Allegedly, Bjorn killed his guests with an axe in order to steal their belongings. He also apparently killed his neighbors to take over their farms. He is believed to have murdered 18 people, and was put to death in 1596 near Hellnar.

Following this visit, we went to Hellnar and Arnarstappi, which thankfully is much nicer than just a place where a serial killer was put to death. These quaint fishing villages are connected by a footpath, which winds around on the coast with the most fantastic cliffs, rock sculptures, and views of Snaefellsjokull glacier.

Snaefellsjokull glacier to the right of the mountain

 

Looking out at the glacier

On the walk, we came across this stunning natural bridge, known as Gatklettur, which is a nesting place for several varieties of bird.

Gatlekkur

We also stumbed across this neat statue, which is supposed to be a guardian of the village, but looks to me kind of like an old fisherman.

Face of the guardian of the village

After walking between the villages, we stopped for lunch at a quaint local restaurant, where we got to talk to some of our fellow travelers (from the Phillipines and Singapore) while we waited for our mutton stew.

Slightly worse for the wear at lunch

After lunch, we stopped at Djúpalónssandur (try saying that 3 times fast), a black stone beach famous for its "lucky rocks," and for its larger boulders which are used to measure the strength of young fisherman. The walk down to the beach was similar to my walk down to Gullfoss, in that it was full of ice, and I almost fell on my butt multiple times. Luckily, there was enough land around here for me to go mountain goat style down the hill, hopping from rock to rock while avoiding the slippery trail.

On the beach are the remains of a wrecked ship, which are not to be disturbed, and have stood as they are for many decades, a monument to the men who died aboard the vessel.

Undisturbed ship ruins on the beach

The beach, like Vik, includes many stone sculptures, including another troll who caught himself in the sun and turned to stone.

Djúpalónssandur beach with the "troll"

After climbing back up to the bus on a less icy path I discovered, I observed the snow starting to come off of the glacier. 

A storm brewing on Snaefellsjokull

Not thinking much of it, I piled back on the bus, reading my book for a few minutes. 5 minutes later, as we approached the end of the single lane road from the beach, the previously clear day had turned into this:

  

As someone who has been through a few blizzards before, this was still one of the scariest. The winds were over 80mph, blowing ALL of the snow off of the glacier and directly into our path. Because the entire road was already covered in 2" of ice, we were not able to drive over it in this wind without chains on, so our poor driver was forced to brave repeated 2-3 minute excursions out into the elements to attach them (he couldn't stay out longer because of the cold). Sitting by the door he exited from, I was exposed to these Arctic blasts pretty frequently as well.

After an hour and a half, our guide was telling us how excellent the Icelandic rescue units are, and the special training that they have in evacuating people when conditions get really bad.... definite "oh shit" moment for me. However, not too long later, the chains were attached, and we were able to creep along at about 3mph back onto the main road, around the end of Snaefellsnes Peninsula to the northern coast.

On the road again

While this cut out the worst of the white out snow, the storm was still blowing in full force, cutting out our ability to see any of the attractions on the north coast, if we had any desire to get back to Reykjavik that night.

Nonetheless, after about 15 hours on the icy road, much adrenaline, several prayers, many calories of chocolate covered liquorice consumed, and one beer bought for stress relief, we made it back to Reykjavik in one piece. Despite the stress, I highly recommend Snaefellsness, and hope to go back some day in nicer weather so I can see it properly!

A much deserved beer on the bus

Next time, I present tolting on an Icelandic horse.

Thanks for reading!

-A